Cyprus Zenobia Trip May 2026

A week in Cyprus in early May saw a group of Mid Herts Divers heading for warmer waters, wrecks, and a healthy dose of Mediterranean sunshine. For many, this would be a first visit to the island and, for some, a first chance to dive the legendary Zenobia.

Sunday started with a slightly unexpected change of plans, as a last-minute cancellation by British Airways saw us rerouted onto a TUI flight from Gatwick to Larnaca. After arriving in Cyprus and being collected by the dive centre staff, we were transferred to our hotel to settle in for the week. The hotel quickly earned the affectionate nickname “Fawlty Towers”, with some rooms featuring aromas that defied identification but certainly added character to the trip.

Our first evening meal was at Vlachos Tavern where we were warmly welcomed with a traditional Cypriot mezze and plenty of excellent local dishes — a great introduction to the week ahead.

Monday morning began at the dive centre sorting kit, particularly for those diving twins abroad for the first time. Then we headed out for two orientation dives. The first was at Green Bay, a relaxed dive featuring underwater statues, shoals of fish and excellent visibility. The second dive at Cyclops Cave involved a slightly more adventurous scramble over the rocks before entering the water. Once submerged, the site opened into a beautiful underwater landscape of sloping rock formations and swim-throughs that felt almost mountain-like beneath the surface.

That evening the group headed to Lysia Meat Tavern for another excellent dinner, although some members regretted opting for the moussaka.

Tuesday was the day many had been waiting for. After driving to the marina and forming an efficient human chain to load kit onto the boat, anticipation built for our first dives on the Zenobia. The group split into “Techies” and “Reccies”, each with slightly different plans for the day.

The first dive was an orientation dive around the exterior of the wreck, giving everyone a sense of the enormous scale of the ferry and its famous twin propellers. Then for the “Techies” the second dive stepped things up considerably, with a descent down to 40 metres before penetrating into the wreck itself and exploring one of the huge cargo holds. Seeing the size and sheer darkness of the spaces inside the wreck for the first time left a lasting impression on everyone. 

Wednesday saw us diving the Elpida Wreck. Although smaller in scale than the Zenobia, it still provided an excellent dive with large open holds, staircases and plenty to explore. The second dive was on the Lambousa which drew comparisons with the Stanegart at Stoney Cove albeit in considerably warmer surroundings.

By this point a routine had begun to establish itself. Returning to the hotel during the early afternoon, the group would then divide between those wanting a quieter afternoon by the pool and those keen to explore more of Cyprus. A few of us hired a car and crossed into Turkish occupied Northern Cyprus, visiting observation points, seeing churches converted into mosques, browsing markets full of “designer” goods of questionable authenticity, and finishing with a traditional Turkish dinner.

Thursday took us back to the Zenobia. Having demonstrated our abilities the previous day, the dive guides began leading us on more adventurous routes deeper into the wreck. The technical divers also started their accelerated decompression procedures and were able to spend more time exploring the vast interior spaces of the ferry. From this point onwards Technical divers were racking up circa an hours deco time per dive before accelerating this on oxygen rich mixes down to circa 15 minutes.

After diving the group again split with some taking the opportunity to head into Larnaca for an afternoon of sightseeing. Stops included coffee overlooking the church square, a visit to the famous Church of Saint Lazarus, the old fort, and of course ice cream.

Friday featured another memorable day on the Zenobia, including dives through the engine room and the enormous central cargo holds. The recreational divers joined for the first part of the central cargo hold to see the famous overturned forklift truck before beginning their ascent while the technical divers continued deeper into the wreck.

Away from diving, some of the group headed to Ayia Napa in the afternoon to explore the town, monastery and coastline. Highlights included the sculpture park, the famous Love Bridge at sunset, a few well-earned drinks, and even a foot massage for some tired divers.

Saturday was a non-diving day and an opportunity to explore further afield with a road trip to Paphos and the surrounding coastline. We visited Petra tou Romiou, said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite, where crystal-clear turquoise water crashed against dramatic rock formations. From there we explored the harbour fort and the impressive Tombs of the Kings, dating from the 3rd century BC through to the 5th century AD.

Along the coast we could also spot the stranded EDRO III sitting on the rocks where it ran aground back in 2011. The day finished with a stop at Kourion, where we explored the archaeological site including its amphitheatre and intricate mosaics before enjoying a drink overlooking the sea.

Sunday was unfortunately departure day, although we managed to squeeze in a final bit of sightseeing with a visit to a botanical garden featuring an impressive hedge labyrinth and wonderfully flamboyant waiting staff before heading back to the airport for the journey home.

The trip was an excellent combination of world-class wreck diving, relaxed scenic diving, sightseeing, food and socialising. A massive thank you goes to Russell Bruton for organising the trip and for being a fantastic buddy throughout the week. From deep wreck penetrations to evening meals and island exploration, it was another brilliant Mid Herts Divers trip with plenty of memories made both above and below the water.